Think I played it RIGHT...TURNS OUT I DIDNT

Have not played nearly as much as I have wanted to the last few years with 3 kids under 5 but had the chance to play at the cash tables in Casino Niagra a few weeks ago. Have always found that their are some sheep to be sheared at the $1/$2 tables so bought in for $100 and took a seat. 4 hours later I am sat with a stack of $750. Felt good, making some good reads and overall controlling most of the action. Then this happens..

I am BB dealt 6H 6D.
Player on the button raises to $25
Small blind calls
I call.

FLOP 6c 9s 9h

Small blind bets $50
I call
Button raises to $150
Small blind goes all in for $780 total
I know the hands that beat me at this stage. Both of them. But these guys have won big pots with rags duringthe four hours or so. Showing what they have won with aswell so i know the wide range they could have...

I call
The button Calls

Pot is just under $2k

Guy on the button shows AA
Small blind show 9-6 and...drawing dead i watch 2 bricks hit the turn and the river and my $100 investemt that looked to bring a nice litte return is done.

I have been a member of this forum for a few years and have played with a handfull of you.

Can i really fold here? We have all played the $1/2 tables at local casinos and you see the crap that playes win with. Did i play this wrong and just got beat or did i make an error:-[
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Comments

  • you played it ok. shit happens. if you are going to fold here, you might as well book your win and call it a day.

    guy with AA should think about his play, though.

    even the guy with 9-6 played it pretty badly. he wanted callers, didn't he? cause he played like he didn't.
  • and lolz @ raising to 25 with AA

    and extra lolz @ calling pf with 96

    gg. gotta get back to niagrrrrrra soon
  • Please tell me what's wrong with raising to 25 with AA before the flop ?

    It is the best opening hand in poker, isn't it ?
  • In a 1/2 game it's great if you want to make $3

    tapatalk puts this here to annoy YOU
  • I don't think I could have folded. Can you include 96 in his range given the preflop action? Not to mention the weird shove on the flop, almost like he wanted a fold.

    So many bluffing hands in his range and only quads and the (unlikely) 96 that beat you. The fact that the button overcalled w/ AA and the SB had 96 is just more proof that you can never fold your flopped boat there.

    Pay it off, rebuy, and most importantly DO NOT leave the table until that guy busts or cashes out!!!


    Please tell me what's wrong with raising to 25 with AA before the flop ?

    It is the best opening hand in poker, isn't it ?


    most players will fold pretty much everything* when you bet $25 into a $3 pot with only 2 players left. This is a bad thing to happen to the best hand in poker!

    * not 96 though, apparently.
  • pkrfce9 wrote: »
    In a 1/2 game it's great if you want to make $3

    tapatalk puts this here to annoy YOU
    Greg, I don't know when the last time you were at Niagara or Fallsview but
    every time I was there, there were lots of loose players with lots of chips
    raising to $25 with a lot less. This play is common for those places. Just because
    it is 1/2, it is not a house game. Those guys are SHARKS, that's why
    I personally don't like playing there. You need deep, deep pockets.
  • What is the max buy in? Avg stack?

    tapatalk puts this here to annoy YOU
  • pkrfce9 wrote: »
    What is the max buy in? Avg stack?

    tapatalk puts this here to annoy YOU
    I think the last time I was there the max buy in was $300 and average
    stack of around $400 - $600.

    I would buy in for $100 and get wiped out in about 1- 2 hours.

    My advice to anyone and everyone playing poker with limited resources
    ie $100 - $200 start. Play till you double or triple your initial buy-in or for
    a set time 2 or 3 hours and then leave. Make a set plan before starting and
    then try to stick to it. This is harder than you think. I normally lose anyway.
  • Niagara must have changed a lot since I was there last fall. Used to be there once a month or so up to then. Max buyin has been $200. for years and avg stack would almost never be that high as several buy in short, perhaps Saturday night you might get a couple of tables with $2-3K on them but not many.

    Oh and always buyin max... Maximize good hands.
  • comp, is that a subtle brag? you should only buy in for max if you are one of the best players at the table. that way your education isn't nearly as costly.
  • i recall back in the day, the max buy-in at the 1/2 might have been 50bbs but maybe it was 100bbs. now they have upped it to 150bbs? that's better than woodbine. sounds like the average stacks are deeper, too, if I am to believe all I'm reading.

    raising to 12bbs with a powerhouse hand is really dumb unless you are a terrible post-flop player (LDO) or you know your opponents will defend with hands like 96.

    calling 12bbs OOP with 66 and implied stacks of 200-300bbs can be profitable IF you know the raiser will almost never fold his hand when you hit.

    calling 12bbs OOP with 96 is only for lunatics and Nostradamus. he has used up his lifetime supply of 1-times.
  • If OP had the full HH, we could discuss the merits of the 25 raise but this is bbv so meh.

    tapatalk puts this here to annoy YOU
  • If your standard open is 12bb, opening AA to $25 on the button is fine......I've been known to do this (but more likely 7-8bb) but I'd have a PFR of 30%.

    Of course, I suck at cash games though
  • I would buy in for $100 and get wiped out in about 1- 2 hours.

    Bill... Do yourself a favour and follow this simplest of poker rules.

    Never buy in for less than 100BB and preferably buy in for the maximum, or as high as your roll will allow. You are severely limiting your ability to compete
    with a short stack. Get a good instructional book, and brush up on implied odds and drawing hands.
  • Just because
    it is 1/2, it is not a house game. Those guys are SHARKS, that's why
    I personally don't like playing there.
    I notice a lot of sharks online, but not at a live 1/2 game.
    DirtArse wrote: »
    Bill... Do yourself a favour and follow this simplest of poker rules.
    Never buy in for less than 100BB and preferably buy in for the maximum, or as high as your roll will allow.
    That is wrong advice for Bill. His current plan, while not optimal, is much better than the disaster of continually buying in for the maximum.
  • BlondeFish wrote: »
    That is wrong advice for Bill. His current plan, while not optimal, is much better than the disaster of continually buying in for the maximum.

    I disagree... The best option would be to buy in for 100BB or more at a lower level that he can beat, but since this is not possible live, then perhaps a .25/50 NL online game would be best. Failing that, he will lose his money a lot quicker buying in short over the log run. It does not matter whether he loses $200 playing over one session... or two. This is all he does by buying in for $100. He guarantees that he will lose the money over an extra session instead of in one go. Same result. By buying in deep, he opens up every aspect of his game and give himself that extra edge. He might still lose if he simply is not good enough, but he won't lose as fast as if he bought in short.

    First thing I look at when I sit at a table is stack size. If the stacks are small, I immediately think "fish", and it's going to be a good night.
  • always hate threads like this

    if a man is more comfortable playing short , then play short. If he wants to play deep, let him play deep.

    Playing short is far easier, and requires a ton less thinking, which is often best for MOST poker players (especially tournament players where they are constantly playing short (-100bb))

    I think playing deep requires a ton more skill that ABC/mtt regs dont generally possess.
  • DirtArse wrote: »
    I disagree... The best option would be to buy in for 100BB or more at a lower level that he can beat, but since this is not possible live, then perhaps a .25/50 NL online game would be best. Failing that, he will lose his money a lot quicker buying in short over the log run. It does not matter whether he loses $200 playing over one session... or two. This is all he does by buying in for $100. He guarantees that he will lose the money over an extra session instead of in one go. Same result. By buying in deep, he opens up every aspect of his game and give himself that extra edge. He might still lose if he simply is not good enough, but he won't lose as fast as if he bought in short.

    First thing I look at when I sit at a table is stack size. If the stacks are small, I immediately think "fish", and it's going to be a good night.

    No.

    I played bill last night at .25/.50. Short fits his playing 'style' perfectly.

    tapatalk puts this here to annoy YOU
  • OHTNCTRHM wrote: »
    always hate threads like this

    if a man is more comfortable playing short , then play short. If he wants to play deep, let him play deep.

    Playing short is far easier, and requires a ton less thinking, which is often best for MOST poker players (especially tournament players where they are constantly playing short (-100bb))

    I think playing deep requires a ton more skill that ABC/mtt regs dont generally possess.

    Buying in short also increases variance as you will be put in spots where you will have to call off your stack with more marginal hands.

    As for AA play and raising to $25, I am fine with it. He managed to get two players to call a large raise with substantially worse hands. My theory is I will raise as much as possible that will be called by worse. Why wouldn't I want the maximum amount in the middle if I know worse will be calling? :D

    As for OP here, you were deep enough to set mine and binked gold. You've got the 3rd nuts and the way 96 played the hand, there was no way you'd have known they had it. Rebuy and go from there.
  • Its hard to fold here, don't put shove on pocket nines. Just bad luck.

    Always buy in for the maximum otherwise you don't have an adequate roll for this level of play. You should always have at least 100 BB in front of you.
  • HammerDad wrote: »
    Why wouldn't I want the maximum amount in the middle if I know worse will be calling? :D
    yes IF. Nostradamus would do well in that game.

    and of course on your bluffing hands, you are also going to raise the max since you don't want to give away any sizing tells, right?
  • pkrfce9 wrote: »
    yes IF. Nostradamus would do well in that game.

    and of course on your bluffing hands, you are also going to raise the max since you don't want to give away any sizing tells, right?

    That is why when it comes to most cash games, I play fairly tight. Probably like 17/14 or so VPIP and raise rates. My rule of thumb for raises in $1/2 games is 5bb + 1bb per limper as it doesn't really matter anyway as most of the 1/2 players don't pay attention to sizing tells anyway. They know they have a hand they want to play and will call a raise without even really thinking about the amount.

    Again, where you have a hand, why not raise the max people will call with worse? If our hand is +ev to begin with, why not maximize our rate of return by allowing people to make stupid calls.
  • i'm not arguing the point IF you know they'll call. i don't know you can say that for sure about this game (no background given) but you are probably right about a lot of casino 1/2 games.

    probably true about the sizing tells too. most low-stakes opponents are fairly brain-dead.
  • pkrfce9 wrote: »
    i'm not arguing the point IF you know they'll call.

    Well, it they aren't willing to call big bets because they have MUBS, well then they've just exposed themselves to you that you can bet big and run all over them.
  • HammerDad wrote: »
    Again, where you have a hand, why not raise the max people will call with worse? If our hand is +ev to begin with, why not maximize our rate of return by allowing people to make stupid calls.

    I don't think you can say flat out that this play maximizes our return.

    For example, if they will call a $25 bet 10% of the time but would call a $15 bet 40% of the time, then we maximize our return by betting $15.

    etc etc.
  • probably less relevant in a game vs braindeads, but also how do we balance out our "massive pre-flop overbet" range?

    What other hands are we doing this with?
  • all of them, apparently.

    actually, any you want since no one notices.
  • Bfillmaff wrote: »
    I don't think you can say flat out that this play maximizes our return.

    For example, if they will call a $25 bet 10% of the time but would call a $15 bet 40% of the time, then we maximize our return by betting $15.

    etc etc.

    I agree. But if $25 gets us 2 callers, but $15 gives us 4-5 callers, our equity vs 4-5 players decrees and we have to play more fit or fold as more boards are likely to hit our opponents simply given the number of opponents.

    I raise as much as will get called by 1-2 opponents. If I find my raises are too high, and I can get away with raising less, then I will. It is all about finding that range where worse will call for the maximum amount.
  • ^ were talking vs 2 blinds. No chance of 4 callers, lucky to get even one.
  • I haven't played any out East..but I have played a lot of live 1/2 out West and a 25 buck open is not that uncommon..typically 12-15, but some nights 20-25 is the standard...just depends on the table.
    Played Edmonton one night where it was table standard to straddle, double straddle, blind raise..for hours...
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