How do I win the CPT, Wed. March 9?

esoolesool
in Brags, Beats & Variance
:)
More specifically, how do you recommend playing during the rebuy period? (1 hour)

11 handed, 8 tables = 88 players.

The starting chips are t2000 and you can rebuy t1000 chips for $100. ( as long as you are at t2000 or less)
Add ons at the end of rebuy period are $200 for t2000.


If my table allows it, I will try limping with mediocre hands, hoping for a miracle flop and then jamming it if I hit.
If I hit top pair with a bad kicker I will bet out also..
The above plan is based on a loose aggressive table which I am expecting during the rebuy period, if not I will adjust accordingly.

After the rebuy period I will change gears to tight aggressive.

Do you agree with my thoughts? If not what do you suggest?


Thanks,

lliB

Comments

  • sweetjimmisweetjimmi
    Honestly, go with tight aggressive right through. If your table is loose aggressive you will be rewarded with your better hands anyway and will invest much less into the tourney.
  • ChugsChugs
    do you really think anyone is going to advise after the re-buy not to play tight agressive. I for one will, if you're at my table. What i would prefer is that you played crazy fold passive ... it involves re-raising any time i raise, then when i re-raise folding with almost your entire stack in the pot.

    some may not understand the genius of your crazy fold passive style, but don't worry i guarantee it'll help me ... ummm i mean you on the way to winning the CPT.

    eroM ylsuoires lliB, si eht yub-er elur rof 0002 ro ssel, gninaem uoy od a elgnis T0001 yub-er ta eht trats, tusj tnaw ot wonk rof ym gnitegdub. *


    * for those who can't speak crazy fold passive latin: more seriously Bill, is the re-buy rule for 2000 or less, meaning you can do a single 1000T re-buy at the start, just want to know for my budgeting*
  • ScottyZScottyZ
    If my table allows it, I will try limping with mediocre hands, hoping for a miracle flop and then jamming it if I hit.

    Not a bad strategy during the early rounds, re-buy or not.
    If I hit top pair with a bad kicker I will bet out also..

    Well, okay. But I'd still put on the breaks quickly if I met any kind of resistance with this kind of cheese. (Again, re-buy or not.)

    Generally, a basic early round tournament strategy will do fine. Don't get too carried away with the fact that you can re-buy. IMO, the adjustments you make to your own play during a re-buy period are not major unless one or more of the opponents at your table seems to have made a major adjustment to his/her own play because it's the re-buy period.

    ScottyZ
  • esoolesool
    sweetjimmi wrote:
    Honestly, go with tight aggressive right through. If your table is loose aggressive you will be rewarded with your better hands anyway and will invest much less into the tourney.

    I have thought a little more about the consequences of playing as reckless as described above and my bank roll cannot afford it. So let me change my plan to a little more conservative play.
    -I will limp with speculative hands in position but I will play my top pair bad kicker/middle pairs more carefully.

    more seriously Bill, is the re-buy rule for 2000 or less, meaning you can do a single 1000T re-buy at the start, just want to know for my budgeting

    As I understand it, yes. :frown:
  • esoolesool
    ScottyZ wrote:
    Not a bad strategy during the early rounds, re-buy or not.



    Well, okay. But I'd still put on the breaks quickly if I met any kind of resistance with this kind of cheese. (Again, re-buy or not.)

    Generally, a basic early round tournament strategy will do fine. Don't get too carried away with the fact that you can re-buy. IMO, the adjustments you make to your own play during a re-buy period are not major unless one or more of the opponents at your table seems to have made a major adjustment to his/her own play because it's the re-buy period.

    ScottyZ

    Sorry Scotty I did read your post until after I posted my reply above.
    (I am a very slow typer..)

    I agree with your advice, thanks!
  • Dave ScharfDave Scharf
    The starting chips are t2000 and you can rebuy t1000 chips for $100. ( as long as you are at t2000 or less)
    Add ons at the end of rebuy period are $200 for t2000.

    I am nut sure what the initial buy-in is, but there appears to me no overlay on the re-buy -- same price as the initial buy-in.

    Thus, from a math perspective, there is no benefit to taking re-buys. They are EV neutral.

    My preference is to minimize cost. So, I will tend to play the re-buy period VERY tight. My experience is that many players will do the reverse and play super loose. This increases your chance of getting all your chips in with a big edge.

    When the re-buy period ends I will buy every chip I can. This means that I will be on par with the average stack starting the second hour. It will be a tie. The only thing the first hour does is determine your cost. If the tournament costs you less than the other guy then you have built an overlay.
    If my table allows it, I will try limping with mediocre hands, hoping for a miracle flop and then jamming it if I hit.

    High variance. You might limp in a lot and slowly grind down and have to take a re-buy.

    I am much more likely to try this AFTER the re-buy when my opponents move into the "fold zone." During the re-buy too many of them do NOT fold. A lot of speculative hands draw power from the semi-bluff. The semi-bluff is a lot less effective when there are re-buys.
    After the rebuy period I will change gears to tight aggressive.

    You certainly should consider changing gears after the re-buy period. In particular, most of your opponents will change their play as well.
  • mragmooremragmoore
    Go Balls-In on every hand.
  • Dave ScharfDave Scharf
    Also high variance... but, not the worst strategy.
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