electrical question

odd question maybe for some of the electricians here...and I am too lazy to join an electrical forum to ask..

So...have any of the electricians here wired 2x2 inner framing walls on houses? I would like to go with these thinner inner walls to gain some floor space. I am hoping to redo all the inner walls (load bearing and bathroom are the exceptions) in 2x2 to gain some floor space... That being said...running into an issue with the wiring..wiring will come in from the floor through the plate and up the side of a wall stud...but, again...with these wall studs being smaller than normal it doesn't give us the 1.25" clearance from either side needed? I know modulars and trailers are done with these narrow framed walls...how do they get away with it?

Comments

  • Wiring aside I'd guess the hassle involved with door frames depth etc wouldn't be worth it to gain the 3 or 4 inches in room space you'd gain....also if anyone knows or figures out you went with thinner walls I'd guess it would destroy the homes value far more than the extra 3 or 4 inches will help. Trailers are trailers for a reason...they're junk :(
  • use steel protection plates on each side of the exposed stud that the wire goes through and there is drywall...buy them at home depot.
  • I am not sure the frame size of an inner wall would have any bearing on the worth of the house... If I can gain 4- 6" overall in a hallway, I feel that will make a big difference in value later on...walls will be insulated for sound. ..And the wiring will be going up the studs vs. through them....

    What I have gathered talking to a few other electricians is that I need to encase the wires in conduit to protect them...just have to project cost on this for all the electrical and data/voice wiring now...
  • BX armoured cable is also an option. Just had a friend of mine install it here in our bathroom reno.

    edit: Sorry, I forgot you were talking about coax, ethernet, etc., not electrical 3 wire.
  • BX armoured cable is also an option. Just had a friend of mine install it here in our bathroom reno.

    edit: Sorry, I forgot you were talking about coax, ethernet, etc., not electrical 3 wire.

    Need the electric wire protected as well...and yeah, looking at the cost of armoured..but then we have to run extra junction boxes...or, make it all armoured which is likely way too expensive.
  • DennisG wrote: »
    odd question maybe for some of the electricians here...and I am too lazy to join an electrical forum to ask..

    So...have any of the electricians here wired 2x2 inner framing walls on houses? I would like to go with these thinner inner walls to gain some floor space. I am hoping to redo all the inner walls (load bearing and bathroom are the exceptions) in 2x2 to gain some floor space... That being said...running into an issue with the wiring..wiring will come in from the floor through the plate and up the side of a wall stud...but, again...with these wall studs being smaller than normal it doesn't give us the 1.25" clearance from either side needed? I know modulars and trailers are done with these narrow framed walls...how do they get away with it?

    I build relocatble structures/trailers aka well sites for the patch. Generally any 2x2 walls are mearly partitions. Most are 2x6 exterior, with 2x4 walls containing door jams, electrical etc. 2x3 or 2x2 for partitions only, say between a shower and a toilet

    You'll have trouble getting electrical boxes to fit and as other posters have mentioned, protection plates are code. BX might be pricy, but doubt conduit will be cheap, especially connectors and any bending tools, abrasion resistant terminations etc. one of the more over killed specs we did lately had both, but the engineer called for far more BX than rigid.

    I would minimize where you use such light construction. It doesn't take much to break a 2x2, especially when 1/3 of the material is removed for the wire to run through. You won't be drilling any smaller than a 1/2" hole, prob bigger. Not much wood left.
  • jontm wrote: »
    I build relocatble structures/trailers aka well sites for the patch. Generally any 2x2 walls are mearly partitions. Most are 2x6 exterior, with 2x4 walls containing door jams, electrical etc. 2x3 or 2x2 for partitions only, say between a shower and a toilet

    You'll have trouble getting electrical boxes to fit and as other posters have mentioned, protection plates are code. BX might be pricy, but doubt conduit will be cheap, especially connectors and any bending tools, abrasion resistant terminations etc. one of the more over killed specs we did lately had both, but the engineer called for far more BX than rigid.

    I would minimize where you use such light construction. It doesn't take much to break a 2x2, especially when 1/3 of the material is removed for the wire to run through. You won't be drilling any smaller than a 1/2" hole, prob bigger. Not much wood left.


    Once again, the wiring will not be going through these 2x2 - 2x4 (sideways/flat) studs...it will be coming up from the floor plate beside the studs.

    These walls will also be only partition, not structural. They also make a flatter box for this purpose.

    The particular style of the wall is to actually use 2x4s, but put them flat as opposed to the standard perpendicular, if you will. This will keep our wall depth at 1.5" (plus drywall on each side) and should maintain the strength needed. At the doorwells, yes, there will be added depth of the 2x4 mounted perpendicular(standard).

    The majority of the armoring that I will have to do is from the floor plate to the wall sockets...which is only 18" or so...plus light switches... Still working out costs though...and may still end up with standard 2x4 walls everywhere.
  • So yeah, ended up moving a front door and changing some bathrooms around and was able to do 2x4 inner framed walls in the end with not losing a lot of space and keeping the ease of wiring.

    I do have one more quick question..I think I might have confused myself..

    I have two smoke/c02 detectors...I have my home run (14/2) dropping off a hot on pigtails to the first detector...then I carry my 14/2 on to my receptacle and onto light switch...From number one detector to number two, I run my 14/3 wire so I they can talk to each other?? My concern is that I can't just drop a hot off at the first detector (which I think is basically considered a light??) and carry on?
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