6-max high-speed low limit strategies?
I'm wondering if any veterans can share strategies for playing on these tables. I'm from a Miller/Sklansky/Malmuth background and I don't think this works as well on a short-handed table.
My thoughts:
* aggression pays off
* low cards, even suited or connected are pretty useless since there aren't enough people in the pot to pay you off if you hit something
* high cards, any pairs are good (i.e. Ax can be a good starting hand)
* chasing open-ended straights or 4-flushes is questionable based on pot odds
I don't have much experience playing short-handed and I guess this is where my question arises.
I more than doubled my stack on the 0.50/1.00 table in about 30 minutes. I got sucked out a few times by guys chasing flushes but I don't think that's a big deal. Also, there seems to be huge variance. I doubled my stack, then lost 60% of that, then went back up to 250%.
Pointers appreciated.
My thoughts:
* aggression pays off
* low cards, even suited or connected are pretty useless since there aren't enough people in the pot to pay you off if you hit something
* high cards, any pairs are good (i.e. Ax can be a good starting hand)
* chasing open-ended straights or 4-flushes is questionable based on pot odds
I don't have much experience playing short-handed and I guess this is where my question arises.
I more than doubled my stack on the 0.50/1.00 table in about 30 minutes. I got sucked out a few times by guys chasing flushes but I don't think that's a big deal. Also, there seems to be huge variance. I doubled my stack, then lost 60% of that, then went back up to 250%.
Pointers appreciated.
Comments
I almost exclusively play the high-speed, 6-max $1-2 tables at Poker Stars. As far as my strategy goes (and I'll thank you to forget this if we ever meet at the table:)) I tend to play only premium starting hands, because as you mentioned, there aren't enough players to make big draws that profitable...after all, it's not like playing on Party or at Brantford where 7 of 9 people are routinely seeing the flop. That said, if I find a very loose table where 5 of 6 routinely see the flop, I tend to loosen my starting requirements a little, mainly just in LP, because even with five or six people you will occasionally get proper odds to draw on...not as often as at a full table, but occasionally. But yes, draws play a smaller part of my game at these tables.
The other reason I like playing there is that it's usually the same crowd at these tables, and I find that you can learn a player's style faster at these tables since you are seeing more hands per hour (i.e. around 80-120) than a full table. So, if you are keeping good notes, you can actually look for your favourite fish before sitting down.
Regarding aggression, I find that like so many other things in poker, the answer is "it depends":) At tighter tables, adopting a "maniac style" can work as you will pick up a lot of smaller pots. After all, it is easier to scare 2 or 3 opponents than 6 or 7. Before you try it though, make sure the players are tight enough to readily fold to your maniacal aggression. But, if it's a loose table, just revert to a normal tight-aggressive game, sit back and wait for your premium hands, and get paid off when you have the goods.
As for variance, I agree that there is a higher variance at these tables...especially if you happen to go on tilt because you are playing so many more hands. But, if you have the bankroll to ride the swings, I find these tables to be highly profitable.
Hope that helps:)
I find there's no real formula that will work for a short game. It's more like baking a cake. You need some basic ingredients and then need some minor adjustments depending on the type of cake your backing.
For the basic ingredients, in order of importance:
1) Agression -- poker rewards initiative. As the game gets shorter, you'll need to increase your aggression level. In poker tracker, I think I was at 1.8 on the 1/2 tables
2) Position -- position is a huge factor in the shorter game. Sometimes you can use aggression to make up for a lack of position. For instance if you're in the big blind and the button raises and you want to play your hand -- a call is horrible -- the only way to play that hand is to re-raise the button. If you can't re-raise, then a fold the only other option.
3) Understanding your opponents -- this is a big part of the short game. You'll need to figure out how each player plays and adjust your strategy. If they call too much, bet for value. If they fold too much, bet to steal pots. IF they have loose pre-flop raising stds., re-raise preflop to isolate. If you can figure out what they think of you, then you're golden!
4) Starting Hands -- I put this as fourth, as starting hand requirements are a factor, but not a huge one. I've seen very loose players be quite successful. The key is to understand the value of your hand and how it plays. So, you choose starting hands based on your understanding of your opponents, position, and how you will apply pressure. If you're at a calling-station table then betting for value becomes the name of the game -- betting out, and raising the flop with a set is good here --- pocket pairs are awesome at this type of table. If you're at a loose aggressive table, then being a little more passive until the turn/river becomes the name of the game -- so choosing hands that have family pot odds -- like suited connectors is good. When the table Zigs, you need to Zag.
Note, if you want to play a "flyer" marginal hand, it's better to raise pre-flop than to call and see what happens. So, back to 1.