How many buy ins is enough?
Yeah, I know this has been covered in some detail, but I still want feedback.
Have been playing ring NLHE .10/.25 for a little while (literally, little while, about a month). Have been doing reasonably well and increased my bankroll from $100 to just shy of $400. I'm looking at moving up a level, so my thought process kind of went like this...
1) My average buy in at any table is 60% of max allowed.
-.10/.25 max is $25; I buy in for $15.
-.25/.50 max is $50; I'm planning to buy in for $35 (slightly larger comfort zone/bigger double up possible; definitely more about the comfort). This gives me approx. 10 buy ins, if I were to go insane and stack myself and continue playing at that level.
2) My multi tabling has been working well. While it's only been 4 tables, I'm comfortable. I am forced to make quicker decisions but am still able to play a varied hand selection without becoming a bot.
3) I start with only one table at this level, while multi tabling at .10/.25 to help increase profitability and decrease variance from swings/mistakes at new level.
4) It's really not a huge jump in skill (I think) so I will be playing very similar styles of opponents.
I think that covers it. Any feedback would be greatly appreciated.
Have been playing ring NLHE .10/.25 for a little while (literally, little while, about a month). Have been doing reasonably well and increased my bankroll from $100 to just shy of $400. I'm looking at moving up a level, so my thought process kind of went like this...
1) My average buy in at any table is 60% of max allowed.
-.10/.25 max is $25; I buy in for $15.
-.25/.50 max is $50; I'm planning to buy in for $35 (slightly larger comfort zone/bigger double up possible; definitely more about the comfort). This gives me approx. 10 buy ins, if I were to go insane and stack myself and continue playing at that level.
2) My multi tabling has been working well. While it's only been 4 tables, I'm comfortable. I am forced to make quicker decisions but am still able to play a varied hand selection without becoming a bot.
3) I start with only one table at this level, while multi tabling at .10/.25 to help increase profitability and decrease variance from swings/mistakes at new level.
4) It's really not a huge jump in skill (I think) so I will be playing very similar styles of opponents.
I think that covers it. Any feedback would be greatly appreciated.
Comments
300x the bb , since your sitting with $25 and could get it all in the middle that makes it the bb. $25 by 300 you need $7500.00 so I don't have to hear "BUT HE MADE THE KING ON THE RIVER AGAIN, i THOUGHT MY ACE HIGH WAS GOOOOD!".
lol
Number of buyin's required depends on Win rate, standard deviation and acceptable risk of ruin.
1. If you're a losing player, multiply your loss rate times your life expectancy.
2. If you're a winning player:
If you can replace your bankroll easily then it's okay to play .25/.50 with only $400.
BUT
If you care about going broke — Calculate your win rate and standard deviation. Determine your acceptable risk of ruin.
If you don't know your win rate a good rule of thumb for cash games is 20 to 100 buyin's. . If losing your bankroll would put you out of action, I'd play .10/.25 until you get to $1000. If your bankroll shrinks to $200, drop down to .05/.10.
I guess I should rephrase it though. It wasn't a failed experiment as far as gaining knowledge about my play and information about my opponents. Just would have been nice to win money while gaining said knowledge.