Difference between 11, 10 & 9 handed

Ok, we had some good discussion on the difference bettween a 10 handed and an 11 handed game on a different thread. I'd like to start a new thread, as it was very much off topic, and just my observations of an 11 handed game at Port Perry.

It may just be helmulthian of me, and the fact that I can't stand losing -- even if it is in the short term. However, I do believe there are very subtle differnces between a 9, 10, and 11 handed game.

In my treasure chest, I have some research done by the fine folks at the University of Alberta, led by Darse Billings. (BTW have I mentioned they make the absolute best poker simulation software out there -- www.poker-academy.com). They ran a simulation to determine the income rates of every single possible hand, in a 7 handed, 4 handed and heads up game. The similation ran several million hands and found a similar result to hte the S&M hand rankings.

If you take a close look the return on a pair of aces goes up as there are more players in the game. However, hands like A9o go down in value from a 4 handed game to a 7 handed game. The same goes for KTo. And, while small suited connectors go up in value as you get more players in the game, they are still only marginally profitable in the long term -- even A9o is worth more.

So, what does all this mean. Based on my experiences, the differnce between a 9 handed and ten handed game is that you will find yourself in more short-handed pots in a 9 handed game, and you'll need heads-up skills to be more profitable in those situations == more selective aggression and more raise/fold decisions.

I'm not sure about what's needed to go from a 10 handed to an 11 handed game. But I do think there needs to be an adjustment -- more than an adjustment you would make in going from a tight game to a loose game.

a) I think playing small pockets to hit sets goes down, as does small suited connectors.
b) I think more patience is required, as the number of pots you will win goes down, but the size of the pot goes up
c) I think variance is a big part of things -- fewer, bigger pots == more variance
d) While I think the rake is oppressive, it should work out better in an 11 handed game, since you are winning fewer pots and contributing less to the rake

preflopincome.jpg

Comments

  • Well. That clears it up.
  • all_aces wrote:
    Well. That clears it up.

    Funniest reply ever.
  • I understand that at some deep mathematical level being 10 handed vs. 11 handed makes a difference but i think i can find 100 better reasons that would adjust my hand requirements than being 11 handed vs 10 handed.

    How many maniacs are on the table, what position i am in relative to those cannons and the rocks on the specific table. All those considerations come into play i think more so. I don't doubt that a difference exists but my question is ... what hands that were playable profitably 10 handed are not playable 11 handed profitably and vice versa

    i have trouble believing that it affects all but the most marginal of hands, and even then the table texture likely outways the number of players (9 vs 10 vs 11) ... in deciding to play.
  • Personally, I don't adjust based on it being 11 or 10 handed. I would adjust for the usual reasons that Chugs suggests. All things being equal, I'll only start making an adjustment as far as starting hands when it gets to 7 handed, maybe 8.
  • a) I think playing small pockets to hit sets goes down, as does small suited connectors.
    b) I think more patience is required, as the number of pots you will win goes down, but the size of the pot goes up
    c) I think variance is a big part of things -- fewer, bigger pots == more variance
    d) While I think the rake is oppressive, it should work out better in an 11 handed game, since you are winning fewer pots and contributing less to the rake

    a) Wrong. Hands that primarily get their value from implied odds would go up in value with more potential players in the pot.

    b) & c) are the same point

    d) yes, with more players your contribution to the rake would be less.

    Anyway, Chugs said it right. Having an extra body at the table is meaningless. The real factor is the style of play of the overall table. 10 to the flop or 11 to the flop is equivalent. 2-3 to the flop has me looking for the exit.
  • would someone be willing to post a list of potential starting hands in say a 9 handed game,8 handed game,7 handed,6 handed, 5 handed. So you cans ee the difference between them.

    Basically i want to know if in a 5-7 handed game im playing to many pots :P
  • The simplest way to adjust to a shorthanded game is just to think of what position you would be in a full game and then play accordingly. If you are under the gun in a 6-handed game this is essentially the same as the first 4 players folding before you in 10-handed full game, so open with whatever hands you would open with from MP in a full game, etc....

    Mike
  • SirWatts wrote:
    The simplest way to adjust to a shorthanded game is just to think of what position you would be in a full game and then play accordingly. If you are under the gun in a 6-handed game this is essentially the same as the first 4 players folding before you in 10-handed full game, so open with whatever hands you would open with from MP in a full game, etc....

    Mike

    I wouldn't recommend that. My suggestion that a 11, 10, 9 handed game had different starting hand values met with resistance. However, it should be clear cut that that a 6 handed game is very different than a full table. For a full discussion see http://forumserver.twoplustwo.com/showthreaded.php?Cat=&Number=1572743&page=&view=&sb=5&o=

    Cheers
    Magi
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